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Research Sources

Here’s a running list of sources I’ve consulted, used or might possibly include in the future:

Arnold, Rebecca.  Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the 20th Century. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 2001.

Atkinson, Michael. Tattooed: The Sociogenesis of a Body Art. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2003.

Barbier, Muriel and Shazia Boucher.  The Story of Lingerie. New York: Parkstone International, 2004.

Barnard, Malcolm. Fashion as Communication. London: Routledge, 1996.

Barnard, Malcolm.  Fashion as Communication.  2nd Ed. London: Routledge, 2002.

Barthes, Roland.  ”Dandyism and Fashion.” The Language of Fashion. Trans. Andy Stafford. Eds. Andy Stafford and Michael Carter. Oxford: Berg, 2006.

Bartlett, Djurdja. “Totalitarian Dress.” The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives. Ed Riello, Giorgio and Peter McNeil. London: Routledge, 2010.

Benstock, Shari and Susan Ferriss, ed. On Fashion. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 1994.

Blummer, Herbert G. “Fashion.” International Encyclopedia of the Social Sciences. Ed. David L. Sills. Vol 5. The Macmillian Company & The Free Press.

Bordo, Susan. “Reading the Slender Body.” Body/Politics: Women and the Discourse of Science. Ed Jacobus, Mary, Evelyn Fox Keller and Sally Shuttleworth. New York, Routledge, 1990.

Boscagli, Mauiriza. Eye on the Flesh: Fashions of Masculinity in the Early Twentieth Century. Boulder: Westview Press, 1996.

Brisson, Luc. Sexual Ambivalence: Androgyny and Hermaphroditism in Graeco-Roman Antiquity. Trans Janet Lloyd.  Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002.

Brozyna, Martha A. Gender and Sexuality in the Middle Ages. Jefferson: McFarland & Company, 2005.

Bruzzi, Stella and Pamela Church Gibson. Fashion Cultures: Theories, Explorations, and Analysis. London: Routledge, 2000.

Calefato, Patrizia. The Clothed Body. Trans. Lisa Adams. Oxford: Berg, 2004.

Cervetti, Nancy. “In the Breeches, Petticoats, and Pleasures of Orlando.” Journal of Modern Literature. Vol 20, No. 2. Winter 1996, p. 165-175. Indiana University Press.

Cottle, Michelle. “Turning Boys into Girls.” The Meaning of Dress. Ed. Mary Lynn Damhorst, Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman, Susan O. Michelman. New York: Fairchild Publications, Inc, 2005. 173-8.

Crane, Diana. “Diffusion Models and Fashion: A Reassessment.” The Annals of the American Academy of Political and Social Science. Vol 566, No 1. 1 November 1999: 13-24.

Davis, Fred. Fashion, Culture, and Identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 1992.

de Marly, Diana. Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History. New York: Homes & Meier Publishers, Inc., 1995.

DeMello, Margo. Bodies of Inscription: A Cultural History of the Modern Tattoo Community. Durham: Duke University Press, 2000.

Dickinson, Amy. “Measuring Up.” The Meaning of Dress. Ed. Mary Lynn Damhorst, Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman, Susan O. Michelman. New York: Fairchild Publications, Inc, 2005. 162.

Ewing, Elizabeth. History of 20th Century Fashion. New York: Costume & Fashion Press, 2002.

Fausto-Sterling, Anne. “The Five Sexes: Why Male and Female are Not Enough.”Sexualities: Identities, Behaviors, and Society.  Ed. Michael S. Kimmel and Rebecca F. Plante.  New York: Oxford University Press, 2004.

Fogg, Marnie. Boutique: A ’60s Cultural Phenomenon. London: Mitchell Beazely, 2003.

Garber, Marjorie. Vested Interests: Cross-Dressing and Cultural Anxiety. New York: Routledge, 1991.

Garber, Marjorie. Vice Versa: Bisexuality and the Eroticism of Everyday Life. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1995.

Goode, Erica. “Thinner: The Male Battle With Anorexia.” The New York Times. 25 June 2000. 25 January 2011. <http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9F02EED7133EF936A15755C0A9669C8B63&pagewanted=1>

Guy, Ali, Eileen Green, and Maura Banim, ed. Through the Wardrobe: Women’s Relationships with their Clothes. Oxford: Berg, 2001.

Halberstam, Judith. Female Masculinity. Durham: Duke University Press, 1998.

Hegland, Jane E. “Drag Queens, Transvestites, Transsexuals: Stepping across the Accepted Boundaries of Gender.” The Meaning of Dress. Ed. Mary Lynn Damhorst, Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman, Susan O. Michelman. New York: Fairchild Publications, Inc, 2005. 180-8.

Henderson, Katherine Usher and Barbara F. McManus. Half Humankind: Contexts & Texts of the Controversy about Women in England 1540-1640. Champaign: University of Illinois Press, 1985.

Hollander, Anne. Sex and Suits. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1994.

Hollander, Anne. Feeding the Eye: Essays. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1999.

Hopfl, Heather. “The Codex, the Codicil and the Codpiece: Some Thoughts on Diminution and Elaboration in Identity Formation.” Gender, Work & Organization.  Vol 14, Issue 6, p. 619-32 Nov 2007.

Keller, Douglas. “Madonna, Fashion, and Identity. On Fashion. Ed. Benstock, Shari and Suzanne Ferriss.  New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 1994.

Kilmartin. Christopher.  The Masculine Self. 4th ed. Cornwall-on-Hudson: Sloan, 2010.

Krishnaraj, Maithreyi. “Androgyny: An Alternative to Gender Polarity?” Economic and Political Weekly. Vol 31, No 16/17 April 20-27 1996. Pg. WS9-WS14. Economic and Political Weekly. <http://jstor.org/stable/4404054>.

Lorber, Judith. “Believing is seeing: Biology as Ideology.” Gender and Society. Vol 7 No 4, December 1993. pg. 568-81, Sage Publications. <http://jstor.org/stable/189514>.

Lurie, Alison. The Language of Clothes. New York: Henry Holt and Company, LLC, 2000.

Martin, Richard and Harold Koda. Jocks and Nerds: Men’s Style in the Twentieth Century. New York: Rizzoli National Publications, Inc., 2000.

McCracken, Grant D. “The Trickle-Down Theory Rehabilitated.” The Psychology of Fashion. Ed. Michael R. Solomon.  Lexington: Lexington Books. 1985.

Meeks, Wayne. “The Image of the Androgyne: Some Uses of a Symbol in Earliest Christianity.” History of Religions. Vol 13, No 3 (February 1974) pg. 165-208. The University of Chicago Press. <http://www.jstor.org/stable/1061813>.

Michaelson, Evalyn Jacobson and Leigh M. Aaland. “Masculinity, Femininity, and Androgyny. Ethos. Vol 4, No 2 (Summer 1976) pg. 251-70. Blackwell Publishing on the behalf of the American Anthropological Association. <http://www.jstor.org/stable/639937>.

O’Flaherty, Wendy Doniger. Women, Androgynes, and other Mythical Beasts. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 1980.

Osofsky, Joy D. and Harold J. Osofsky. “Androgyny as a Life Style.” The Family Coordinator. Vol 21, No 4 (October 1972) pg. 411-18. National Council on Family Relations. <http://www.jstor.org/stable/582684>.

Perniola, Mario.  Between Clothing and Nudity.  Mario Perniola Personal Website. 1 February 2011.  <http://www.marioperniola.it/site/dettagliotext.asp?idtexts=47>

Pope, Harrison, Katharine A. Phillips, Roberto Olivardia. The Adonis Complex: The Secret Crisis of Male Body Obsession. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2000.

Reed, C. S. (2004), “The codpiece: social fashion or medical need?.” Internal Medicine Journal, 34: 684–686. doi: 10.1111/j.1445-5994.2004.00635.x

Schiebinger, Londa. Nature’s Body: Gender in the Making of Modern Science. Boston: Beacon Press, 1993.

Simmel, Georg. “Fashion.” International Quarterly 10. 1904: 130-55. <http://www.modetheorie.de/fileadmin/Texte/s/Simmel-Fashion_1904.pdf>.

Singer, June. Androgyny: The Opposites Within. Newburyport: Nicolas-Hays, 2000.

Sontag, Susan. “Notes on ‘Camp.'” 1964.  <http://www.math.utah.edu/~lars/Sontag::Notes%20on%20camp.pdf>. 

Steele, Valerie. Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1985.

St. John, Warren. “Metrosexuals Come Out.” The New York Times. 22 June 2003.  25 January 2011. <http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/07/fashion/shows/07DIARY.html>

Trebay, Guy. “The Vanishing Point.” The New York Times. 7 February 2008. 25 January 2011. <http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/07/fashion/shows/07DIARY.html>

Veblen, Thorstein. The Theory of the Leisure Class. University of Virginia. <http://xroads.virginia.edu/~HYPER/VEBLEN/veb_toc.html>

Vicary, G. Q. (1989), “Visual Art as Social Data: The Renaissance Codpiece.” Cultural Anthropology, 4: 3–25. doi: 10.1525/can.1989.4.1.02a00010

Votolato, Gregory. “Nice Threads: Identity and Utility in American Fashion.” The Fashion History Reader: Global Perspectives. Ed Riello, Giorgio and Peter McNeil. London: Routledge, 2010.

Wang, Connie. “Fashon’s Night Out Expands World Wide.” Refinery 29. Web. 12 January 2011. <http://www.refinery29.com/fashions-night-out-expands-worldwide.php>

Welters, Linda and Patricia A. Cunningham, ed. 20th Century American Fashion. Oxford: Berg, 2005.

Westheimer, Ruth K. and Sanford Lopater. Human Sexuality: A Psychosocial Perspective.  2nd ed. Baltimore: Lippincott, Williams & Wilkins, 2005.

Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. New Brunswick: Rutgers University Press, 2003.

Woolf, Virginia. A Room of One’s Own. London: Penguin Group, 2000.

Woolf, Virginia. Orlando. London: Penguin Group, 1993.

Image Credit:

“Wall of Books.” Photo. 24 February 2011. http://bookshopblog.com/2010/02/09/when-does-bulk-buying-for-your-bookshop-get-out-of-hand/

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